Possibly my favorite mode of transportation when in Europe is by train. Seriously, there is just something about it. Even if to get to said train you have to try to navigate the stairs, escalator, and elevator with 4 rolling suitcases and a double stroller, I would argue that it is still better than flying or driving. Luckily, we’d been to the Zurich station enough times at this point to have a feel for the layout and it wasn’t terribly difficult to figure out where to go but it did take multiple trips in the tiny elevator to get down. Cameron also got really good at getting the stroller down the escalator when there wasn’t an elevator (which was pretty often, so if you bring a stroller or especially a double stroller, be warned). It was a bit of a rocky start getting on the train with all of our things and all 3 children but we eventually got our groove down for loading and unloading, and everyone was on the train and settled. Once on the train from Zurich to Paris, the kids did really well for the 2.5 hour train ride. They didn’t even use their kindles, just the travel bags I packed for them. We used these zipper bags. They are a great size for activities, and still leave room in backpacks. I highly recommend. If you’re looking for more ideas or specific links, please also see my post on travel activities. Specifically on this trip for each kid I packed: 

• Color book with at travel soap box full of crayons (still ridiculously proud of this idea haha)
• A color book packet
• Water paint book with pen
• A package of clay 
• 2 small animals to play in clay (2 because Cameron said the 1 needed a friend. Yes.)
• 2 or 3 books that they could each trade around, including small I spy books. Search books are usually a good idea for independent use
• Loop water game
• Fidget popper game

We arrived in Paris and disembarked with our entourage and baggage. Basically, Cheryl (Cameron’s mom) and I got off and Cheryl stood in one spot off to the side, Cameron tossed me a kid and I set the kid with Cheryl. Repeat. I got the stroller set up while he also got the suitcases off in a similar manner. Thank goodness Grandma came along! It was so helpful to have the help (other than the obvious fact that I’m happy she got to see some cool places with us of course). We set out to figure out where to get the Navigo card. This was something Cameron had read about and determined it was worthwhile because we would be using public transportation for over 3 days while in Paris, including taking the RER train to Chessy for Disneyland Paris. We chose the weekly ticket for 30.75 Euros, which worked Monday thru Sunday. You obtain the card from the Île-de-France mobilities office which was not easy to find (but apparently there is also an app now so I would possibly look into that as things are ever changing). Everyone was tired at this point, and it was not a shining moment. The signage was not helpful, plus it was difficult to find elevators and such once we decided it might be worthwhile to try to go down to the lower levels to the metro to see if the office was there. Cameron asked a gentleman who worked for the metro and was standing in front of an info desk at one point and he told us we needed to go upstairs again I believe. Doesn’t really matter where he told us to go, but we went there and eventually found out the card we needed was at that first info desk he was standing in front of. Obviously. Sometimes asking for help just isn’t a good idea, it isn’t actually helpful. Anyway, we finally figured it out. Meanwhile, I was doling out snacks to keep the peace because it ended up taking us over an hour to get off the train, down to the metro and finally on a train. In order to get the Navigo card, you also have to have photos taken, which was simple enough using the photo booth that cost around 5 euros. As simple as having a tired toddler sit still and look at the small box to center her eyes while being held up high enough by her Dad. Twice. 

And apparently this has become a Paris transportation post. Oops. But the absolute cherry on the top of this whole getting out of the Paris train station and to our apartment situation was getting stuck in the door of the metro. Hot tip, the metro door DOES NOT CARE if you are in the door. We were trying to be prepared, we had the suitcases and stroller and Jackson assigned to an adult. Then Jackson went rogue and switched parents, and it all happened so fast but I think he decided he was going to get on with Cameron instead of me. I had the stroller and I realized he wasn’t with me, I hesitated because I was looking for him in the station with all the other people trying to get on, found him getting on with one of the others, and then I jumped to get on the train, but the door closed on the stroller, me, and then on my backpack as I tried to shove forward. Everything was in slow motion. All eyes were on the American idiot who was stupid enough to get stuck in the door. It didn’t hurt too bad, mostly my pride. And as soon as I determined that I was going to make it and was trying to get the stroller locked and ready to move, the train lurched forward and I fell on the cello case of a really nice American woman with red lipstick. The details you remember. She was very kind to me, despite my nearly falling in her lap. In the midst of our exchange, she warned me that the Paris metro system would be difficult with children, and especially with a stroller. She was not wrong. Don’t do it. We got to our metro stop and there were 3 flights of stairs, some walking, more flights of stairs, more walking, and more stairs to get to the street level. We had originally tried to move the stroller up and down with the girls in it. People were very kind and stopped to try to help but between me and one man, it was still very difficult. We nearly tipped the darn thing clear over one time. Eventually, I got the girls out and carried them one by one or let them walk up or down if we had time. Cheryl stayed at the bottom or went to the top first and I moved between with the girls or stroller. Again, very thankful for the 3rd adult here. Cameron was on the other end with the suitcases. Somehow, we survived. 

By the time we emerged from the metro station closest to our apartment for the next 4 days, it was raining as we expected. This trip was definitely not going to have the best weather but I was just hoping that I had prepared our clothing options to the best of my ability. Because of the rain, we played frogger across streets to stand under an arch to wait while Cameron had to walk 5 minutes in one direction to collect the keys for our apartment that was 5 minutes from our arch shelter in a different direction. While we were waiting, a woman approached me and asked me if I had a napkin. It took me a minute to understand with her thick french accent, but I got her a napkin that I obviously had in my pocket because I’m a mom. She took it to wipe her phone as she explained that a bird “just sheet” on her phone. She sounded so confused and annoyed, but I was so exhausted, that I sort of walked away without processing it and then Cheryl asked me, “what did she say?” We laughed so hard that I was crying after the french lady walked away, and I still regret not giving her a baby wipe too. What sort of mother am I if I can’t properly share my supplies? Cameron returned and we started walking to the apartment and I realized that Jackson’s backpack had also been “sheet on”. Cool. Cool cool cool. 

Our apartment in Paris was next to a restaurant with a hot dog statue and a giant stuffed bear chilling on the patio. Character. Charm. Oozing Parisian appeal. But seriously, it was a good place to stay in Paris, especially for the price. In case you’re inspired to stay (or if you’re like me and like to look at these kinds of things for fun), here is the apartment link. It had a kitchen that was stocked with a nespresso so gotta love that. There was a small room with a bunk bed for the kids (the girls shared the twin bottom bunk), a room next to it with a queen bed, and then a room downstairs with a queen bed. The main floor had a small bathroom with a toilet and then a separate room with a shower. Downstairs, there was a “bathroom” with a bathtub, sink, and bidet but no toilet, as well as the washer and dryer that I still don’t know how to use after many, many, many hours and multiple attempts to contact the host (but in all fairness, we were hard to reach because we didn’t always have data on). Why did the dryer turn off after 5 minutes and restart again sometimes but not all times? Why do they function in this way? I don’t know. Why did the clothes from the washer not smell clean after my first attempt at washing? I don’t know. I may never fully understand how the laundry machines work in Europe, and it’s probably time I made peace with that. To wrap up my random and unusual apartment review, the one big challenge with this apartment was that the staircase to the basement was rather steep with short steps and it was not very easy to navigate, so it just impacted sleeping arrangements but wasn’t a big deal. 

After dropping our things at the apartment, we ventured out to dinner at Bouillon Chartier. This is a great and affordable option in Paris, especially with kids. Cameron and I had gone here before seeing an Opera at the Palais Garnier on our first trip to Paris. If you are able to go see a show there, I highly recommend it. The opera house is stunning and the opera, Platée, was really enjoyable, even in French. But anyway, dinner at Bouillon Chartier is an affordable way to have a fancy feeling french dinner, especially with littles. Entrees range from 7-15 euros, wine is cheap, desserts are cheap, and the atmosphere is fun. Charlotte and Grandma both tried escargot and thus continued “Charlotte eats,” as she seems to be the most adventurous eater.

The next morning, I booked a photographer through GetYourGuide. I highly recommend doing this. I really wanted to do family photos with the iron lady, but the photographers I researched were a bit too pricey, especially considering we might be working with some very overtired toddlers. The options on get your guide were really affordable! Most other photographers started at $300 and I’m sure they are amazing, but I just wanted a few posed photos that someone else edited. We spent less than $50 and it included photos of all 6 of us. It was a really good experience and I would definitely recommend it if you’re like me, and have low expectations for some decent photos (BTW I am a GetYourGuide partner, so if you use my affiliate code, I earn a small commission, but I’d still recommend either way, I may not even get a commission, I’m new to all of these things lol). Another great activity to find on GetYourGuide that Cameron and I did on a previous trip (and wanted to do on this trip but weather and time were an issue if I remember correctly) is a river cruise on the seine. It was a fun way to see the Eiffel tower and Notre Dame from a totally different angle, without walking! I also think doing a river cruise with lunch or dinner like these options would be such a lovely way to spend an afternoon or evening.

Following our Eiffel tower photos, to warm up and to fulfill the promised “smiles bribe”, we stopped at Carette for their famous hot chocolate and whipped cream. After waiting in line for a table inside, we ordered a few pastries and as many hot chocolates that the waitress would let us. I’m still not certain why we were told no when we asked for more hot chocolate than we were given. TImes like these, I really wish I spoke French, but she basically dismissed us and we were left with one little pot of hot chocolate and 2 tea cups, for 6 of us. Who knows. If you have been to Carette and know why this was done, let me know. I still lose sleep over this. Ok not really. Anyway, It was very good but very rich. After the kids were done licking the cups clean, we took a bus down to the base of the Eiffel tower. One of my most favorite places to be in Paris (or you know, the whole world) is on the lawn in front of the Eiffel tower for a picnic. But unfortunately when we visited this time, in addition to the cold temperature, the lawn below the tower was being torn up to be replanted. Earlier in the morning, our photographer informed us that the mayor was nesting before the upcoming Olympics. They also had huge barricades to keep people from being able to walk under the tower like we had before. I was very let down. You have to understand, I adore the Eiffel tower. I have way too many Eiffel tower knick knacks and decorations around my house. Too many people have indulged my obsession over the years (I’m looking at you Mom). When Cameron and I visited in 2015, it was literally a dream come true. The best way to enjoy is ala the Rick Steves method: the tour de Rue Cler (read more about it here from the man himself). Wander down this street near the eiffel tower and collect items from the fromagerie, the charcuterie, and the boulangeries, and finally the wine shop, where you should ask for your wine to be uncorked and if they have plastic cups (or be like me and collect the ones that you hotel offers for water that are covered in plastic. I know, I’m a classy lady). Next, take your cheese, meats, bread and wine and sit yourself down to admire the most famous landmark in Paris. Unpopular opinion probably, but I don’t know if I ever really need to go back up in it, just look at her. 

As I think more on our time in Paris, I wish we hadn’t had such a large checklist of sites we needed to visit or revisit, and had taken more time to wander. But, we also didn’t really want to wander when we did have a bit of an opportunity to do so because it was cold and everyone was usually starving but we couldn’t just grab sandwiches or treats or sit outside at a cafe because it was too cold. Se la vie. When in Paris, make time to sit at a cafe if you can (many even have blankets) and have a drink and just people watch. We also made the mistake of not eating at normal Paris time, which made it difficult to find restaurants that seemed to be selling food that weren’t super touristy. After our Eiffel tower morning, we ventured up to the Montmartre neighborhood to see Sacre-coeur, and we got off the bus to see a small christmas market that ended up being very underwhelming (sometimes being spontaneous pays off and you find something really cool. Sometimes it leaves you in an area that has very few buses that actually go by and your only option is to continue climbing up a steep hill to eventually get to a church for the view, but for far too long it’s just freezing and everyone is hangry. Choices.) BUT. We did finally walk into a restaurant that was definitely more of a bar but it had some decent food options and the kids got to experience their first charcuterie board at a restaurant. Honestly, it worked out pretty well for them and they were very excited to try all the things, plus bread was and is its own food group for Cassidy. Pickles? Good. Peppers? Good. Cheese? Good. Salami? Good. I also got a bowl of French onion soup (or is it just onion soup when ordered in France?) It was really good, I think. I didn’t get to eat all of it because it was so hot. If they hadn’t dumped it when we left, it might still be hot. 

We got to the top of the hill to see the view from Sacre-coeur, and even though it was one of the places that had already been seen on our 2015 visit and was sort of a “check the box” visit, it was still beautiful, especially at sunset. There were also a couple of guys playing music on the steps. It was just an iconic parisian scene, minus the throngs of tourists. I think this may be my most favorite view in all of Paris. On our previous visit, there was a food market at the base of Sacre Couer and that may be the best way to experience it if you get the chance. We took the funicular down from Montemarte and at the base, there was a public restroom that we waited to use and got our first experience with the self cleaning bathrooms in Paris. It was a trip. After each person, the stall will lock and clean itself for a couple of minutes, resulting in a sanitized but wet bathroom experience. Not sure I loved it but it did the job. From there we hopped on a bus hoping we would get to the top of the Galeries Lafayette Department store in time to see the Eiffel tower twinkling as it does every hour for five minutes starting at dusk. We should have called it and not wasted the time running up 8 floors to try to catch the twinkling. Hindsight. We missed the twinkling, but still had a nice view of the tower.

The mall itself is very much worth visiting, especially to see the Christmas decorations. There is a Christmas “tree” built in the middle of the atrium that changes every year. It was stunning. As are the decorated and animated window displays that you can walk by outside of the mall. There is a different theme for the windows every year and they were so fun to look through. The theme for 2023 was “The Fairies and the Enchanted World”. It was very whimsical and fashionable, and the kids loved to look at all of the moving pieces. If you didn’t see my reel on instagram, you can hop over there to see some of the pieces in action.

And I have way too much to share about Paris so you’ll have to come back for part two!

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